My Egypt

Part 3

Thursday, January 5, 2017

Alexandria

We had an early start, leaving Cairo behind us on the “desert road” towards Alexandria. The more we leave Cairo behind us, the scenery and traffic changed. Less cars, and we are surrounded by desert, an occasional orchard sprinkled here and there. We pass trucks loaded with mandarins or bananas. People sitting in the back of trucks, without any protection.

We enter Alexandria. A large and modern city with approximately 6 million people, influenced by European culture due to their location. Cypres is only 30 minutes away, and Greece is closer than Aswan.

 The city was founded by Alexander the Great in 331 BC. It once held one of the 7 World Wonders, the famous lighthouse. After the great earthquakes of 1303 and 1326, the lighthouse was completely destroyed. Now the remains of a Fort, which was built on top of the remaining foundation, still stands.

Upon entering Alexandria, our chauffeur stops to let in our new tour guide named Mohammed. Our scenic tour begins.

Alexandria used to house the greatest and most significant libraries of the ancient world. Legend and old accounts speak of a great fire, destroying the largest library the ancient world had seen. A new and modern library has been rebuilt in Alexandria, and this was one of my main reasons for wanting to visit this famous city.

We stop in front of the modern building, eleven stories high. The design of the new library is both timeless and bold. Its vast circular from alongside the circular Alexandrian harbour recalls the cyclical nature of knowledge, fluid throughout time. Its glistening, tilting roof recalls the ancient lighthouse and provides the city with a new symbol for learning and culture.

A statue of Alexander the Great greets the newcomer at the entrance. We humbly walk through the doors, entering this amazing place. Large glass windows separated us from the heart of the building – rows upon rows of books. High security prohibits anyone entering the library and my heart sank with deep disappointment. We had thought that we would be able to walk through the library, and now my hopes and dreams lay shattered at my feet. After a short glance through the thick glass, we were guided towards the elevator, to take us below – the depth of the library containing 8 levels. 

We learned more about Alexander the Great and the old library. Then we walked through the art gallery, showing modern Egyptian art and styles and traditions by the Bedouins and Desert people. I love art, but that was not what I had been anticipating. We left the building with great sadness. 

Our chauffeur takes us closer to the harbour, and our tour guide Mohammed gets us a refreshing drink made from cane sugar. We walk to a tiny and ancient mosque, hidden between other old houses. This mosque claims to hold the bones of the prophet Daniel…

As we emerged back into sunlight to walk back towards the car, I noticed a small street bakery, and drag my husband (the baker) towards it. Two young boys worked at the end of the conveyer belt, catching the bread. I was allowed to take pictures, and Mohammed, our tour guide translated for us, letting the baker know that my husband was also a baker. We received free samples of the hot, fresh and tasty bread.

Our tour continued by visiting the old Roman ruins, which were found by coincidence during a building phase in the 50’s. An entire road and amphitheatre, with shops and houses were revealed. Archeologists are still uncovering more to this day.

We then drove to the spot where the old lighthouse, one of the 7 World Wonders, once stood. The view of the ocean was breathtaking. I took pictures of the old Fort, with beautiful coloured boats swaying in the bay in front.

Next, we entered the largest Mosque in Alexandria. I had to use a different side entrance, with my head covered. It was a smelly old piece of fabric given to me quickly, so I could enter the grand building. Once inside, I was allowed to meet up with my husband and Mohammed, who demonstrated their prayer.

Back to the car, we now drove along the shores of the Mediterranean Sea. The city extends about 40 km (25 mi) at the northeastern coast of Egypt. Hotels on one side, and across a small strip of beach and the beautiful Mediterranean Sea; the busy street serving as the dividing line.

The car slowly drives by the old castle of King Farouk. An impressive and fairy style building, we continue to the gardens, which are open to the public. As we eat a late lunch, we are joined by seven hungry cats. The gardens, 30 acres of landscaping are a dream. Underneath swaying palm trees, one always has the amazing views towards the blue waters of the sea. 

Finally, at 4:45 pm we make it to our hotel. The huge hotel is squeezed in beside other tall and ugly buildings right on the main road, which cuts between the ocean and the hotel. Yet, the inside of the building is impressive and breathtaking, with a huge, noble staircase leading towards the higher levels. 

Once inside our room, I shower, lay on the bed and fall asleep immediately. At 7 pm we go downstairs in the almost empty dining room. Only one other table across the room is occupied by a family. A hired musician with a guitar enters the room, and starts playing and signing for the family. Beautiful, enchanting Oriental music surrounds us as we enjoy our Egyptian dinner. 

Exhausted from another busy day, we return to our room and fall asleep almost instantly.